Kathmandu and Pokhara Beyond Momos: Eating Well in Nepal

The question we get most often from clients about food in Kathmandu and Pokhara is, 'What should I eat that isn't a momo?' While momos are ubiquitous and delicious, Nepal's culinary landscape offers far more depth, especially if you know where to look and what to ask for.

Many travellers arrive expecting only dal bhat and momos, and while these are central, the variety available is surprising. We've seen clients struggle to find options beyond tourist menus, or shy away from local eateries due to uncertainty. Our aim is to demystify eating in Nepal's cities.

The Dal Bhat Question: Is it Enough?

Dal bhat, the national dish of Nepal, is a meal of steamed rice, lentil soup (dal), and various vegetable curries (tarkari), often accompanied by a pickle (achar) and sometimes meat. Clients often ask if it's too repetitive or bland. The truth is, a good dal bhat is never bland, and its variations are numerous.

The lentil soup varies by region and cook, from thin and spicy to thick and creamy. The vegetable curries change daily based on seasonal availability, incorporating potatoes, cauliflower, spinach, gourds, or beans. For trekkers, it’s the ideal fuel, offering carbohydrates, protein, and fibre, with the added benefit of unlimited refills in most local establishments.

Thakali Khana Set: An Elevated Dal Bhat

If you're looking for an upgrade to the standard dal bhat, seek out a 'Thakali Khana Set'. Originating from the Thakali people of the Mustang region, this set meal typically includes buckwheat or rice, black dal, gundruk (fermented leafy greens), a variety of seasonal vegetables, spicy achar, and often a choice of local meat like yak or goat. It's usually served with ghee and a distinct spice blend, offering a richer, more complex flavour profile than a standard dal bhat.

Exploring Newari Flavours in Kathmandu

Kathmandu, being the historic home of the Newar people, is the best place to explore Newari cuisine. This distinct culinary tradition is often overlooked by first-time visitors who stick to tourist areas like Thamel. Newari food is characterized by its use of buffalo meat, unique spices, and a range of fermented dishes.

We usually tell clients to seek out a 'Newari Khaja Set' in a local Newari restaurant. These sets are often served on a brass plate and include beaten rice (chiura), various marinated meats (chhoila, sukuti), fried buffalo tongue (jimbu), spicy potato salad (aloo ko achar), fried lentil patties (bara), and often fermented radish pickle (mula ko achar). It's a communal dining experience, perfect for sharing.

Don't be afraid to venture a few blocks outside Thamel or Lakeside for Newari food. The best experiences are often found in smaller, family-run establishments where the focus is on traditional preparation and local clientele.

• **Chatamari:** Often called 'Nepali pizza,' this is a thin rice-flour crepe, topped with minced meat (usually buffalo), egg, and vegetables. A must-try.
• **Bara:** Thick, savoury lentil pancakes, sometimes with a minced meat or egg topping. A staple in Newari feasts.
• **Samay Baji:** A traditional Newari snack platter, similar to the Khaja set, often served during festivals or special occasions.

Pokhara's Lakeside Offerings: More Than Tourist Fare

Pokhara's Lakeside area is known for its cafes and restaurants catering to international tastes, but excellent local food is also readily available. Beyond momos and dal bhat, look for Tibetan and Gurung influences in the local eateries. Many places offer fresh lake fish, especially tilapia, often pan-fried or curried.

For breakfast, try a Nepali omelette with local bread, or 'puri tarkari' (fried bread with potato curry). Many small tea shops outside the main tourist drag offer these at very reasonable prices. Pokhara also has several excellent bakeries for fresh pastries and bread, though these are more Western in style.

Beyond the Lake

If you're willing to explore beyond the immediate Lakeside area, you'll find more authentic Nepali dining. The neighbourhood of Mahendrapul, for example, is where many locals eat and offers a wider range of traditional dishes at lower prices. It's a short taxi ride from Lakeside and provides a different atmosphere.

Navigating Dietary Restrictions

Clients frequently ask about vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Nepal is generally very accommodating for vegetarians, as a large portion of the population follows a vegetarian diet. Most dal bhat sets are inherently vegetarian, and tofu and paneer (Indian cheese) are common protein sources.

For vegans, it requires more careful communication. While dairy is widely used in Nepali cooking (ghee, paneer, yogurt), it is possible to eat vegan. Clearly state 'no milk, no butter, no cheese, no yogurt, no ghee, no eggs' ('dudh chaina, ghiu chaina, paneer chaina, dahi chaina, anda chaina'). Repeat your request to ensure it's understood.

Gluten-free options are less common and more challenging to explain. Rice-based dishes are safe, but many fried items use wheat flour. Newari chatamari, made from rice flour, can be a good option. Always inquire about ingredients if you have severe allergies.

Food Safety and Avoiding Common Issues

Stomach upsets are a common concern. The key is vigilance and common sense. Always drink bottled water or properly filtered/boiled water. Many hotels and guesthouses now offer refill stations for a small fee, which is a more sustainable option.

Avoid raw salads and unpeeled fruits unless you are confident they have been washed with purified water. Stick to hot, well-cooked food. Meat should be thoroughly cooked. Street food can be delicious but assess the hygiene of the vendor and the freshness of the ingredients before trying.

Worth the Cost? 'Western' Food and Coffee

Kathmandu and Pokhara have numerous restaurants offering 'Western' food—pizza, pasta, burgers, and international breakfasts. While these can be a welcome change for some, they often come at a premium price and the quality can be inconsistent compared to the local fare. We generally advise clients to enjoy the local cuisine as much as possible.

Good coffee shops are plentiful, especially in Thamel and Lakeside. Expect to pay similar prices to what you would in a Western city, typically NPR 250-500 for a specialty coffee. While it's a pleasant indulgence, don't feel compelled to spend heavily on these options if your budget is tight; the local milk tea is a fraction of the cost and provides an authentic taste of daily Nepali life.

Ultimately, exploring the food scene in Kathmandu and Pokhara is part of the adventure. Be open to new flavours, ask questions, and don't hesitate to venture slightly off the main tourist paths to find genuine Nepali culinary experiences.