Upper Mustang. The name itself conjures images of dramatic landscapes, ancient monasteries clinging to cliff faces, and a culture untouched by time. Nestled in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, this restricted region of Nepal offers a trekking experience unlike any other, especially during the summer months. While many shy away from trekking in Nepal during the monsoon season, Upper Mustang offers a unique refuge with significantly less rainfall than other parts of the country. Forget crowded trails; here, you’ll discover hidden gems, immerse yourself in authentic Tibetan culture, and witness landscapes that will leave you breathless. But venturing into this mystical kingdom requires careful planning, including understanding the necessary trekking permits, securing your TIMS card, and ensuring your Nepal visa is in order.

My recent trek to Upper Mustang in July 2024 (planning a return in July 2025!) was a transformative experience. I traded the stifling humidity of Kathmandu for the crisp, dry air of the high desert. While other regions battled relentless monsoon rains, Upper Mustang offered mostly sunny days and dramatic cloudscapes that painted the landscape with ever-changing light. This blog post shares my insights, practical advice, and insider tips to help you plan your own unforgettable adventure to the hidden gems along the Upper Mustang Trail.

Planning Your Upper Mustang Trek: Permits, Visas, and Timing

Before you even dream of gazing upon the ancient walled city of Lo Manthang, you need to navigate the bureaucratic requirements. Securing the necessary permits and visa is paramount, and understanding the best time to visit will significantly impact your experience.

Essential Permits and Documents

Unlike most trekking routes in Nepal, Upper Mustang requires a special restricted area permit in addition to the standard TIMS card. Here’s a breakdown:

• Restricted Area Permit (RAP): This is the big one. For Upper Mustang, the RAP costs US$50 per person per day for the first 5 days and US$10 per day thereafter. You need a minimum of two people to obtain this permit. Single trekkers are not allowed. The permit is issued by the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu through a registered trekking agency.
• TIMS Card (Trekkers’ Information Management System): This card is mandatory for almost all treks in Nepal. You can obtain it through the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or through your trekking agency. It costs approximately NPR 2000 (around US$15-20).
• ACAP Permit (Annapurna Conservation Area Project Permit): As Upper Mustang lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area, you’ll also need this permit. It costs NPR 3000 (around US$25-30). Again, your trekking agency can assist with this.
• Nepal Visa: Ensure your Nepal visa is valid for the duration of your trek. You can obtain a visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu or apply in advance through the Nepalese embassy or consulate in your home country. A 30-day visa currently costs US$50.

Important Note: All permits are typically handled by your trekking agency. They’ll require copies of your passport, visa, and passport-sized photos. Make sure to provide these well in advance of your trek. Expect the permit process to take a few days.

Choosing the Right Time: Summer/Monsoon in Upper Mustang

While the rest of Nepal is drenched in monsoon rains, Upper Mustang remains relatively dry thanks to its location in the rain shadow. July and August are arguably the best months for trekking here. The landscape is lush and green, wildflowers bloom, and the temperatures are pleasant. However, be prepared for occasional short showers, particularly in the late afternoons. The biggest advantage of trekking during this time is the significantly fewer crowds compared to the peak seasons of spring and autumn.

Insider Tip: Pack a lightweight, waterproof jacket and waterproof bags to protect your electronics and belongings. Sunscreen is crucial, even on cloudy days, as the altitude intensifies the sun’s rays. Also, be aware that landslides can occasionally disrupt travel in the lower regions of Nepal, potentially delaying your arrival in Kathmandu.

The Upper Mustang Trek: A Detailed Route Overview

The standard Upper Mustang trek typically lasts for 10-14 days, starting and ending in Jomsom. However, you can customize your itinerary based on your time and preferences. Here’s a typical route, highlighting some of the key villages and attractions:

1. Day 1: Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom (2,743m/9,000ft). This is a spectacular flight offering breathtaking views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges.
2. Day 2: Trek from Jomsom to Kagbeni (2,800m/9,186ft). Kagbeni is the gateway to Upper Mustang and a charming village with a medieval atmosphere. You’ll need to show your permits here.
3. Day 3: Trek from Kagbeni to Chele (3,050m/10,007ft). The trail gradually ascends, passing through interesting rock formations and small villages.
4. Day 4: Trek from Chele to Syanboche (3,475m/11,400ft) via Samar. This day involves crossing two passes, offering stunning views.
5. Day 5: Trek from Syanboche to Ghami (3,520m/11,548ft). Visit the Chungsi Cave Monastery, carved into a cliff face.
6. Day 6: Trek from Ghami to Lo Manthang (3,810m/12,500ft). This is the highlight of the trek. You’ll pass by the longest Mani wall in Nepal.
7. Day 7: Explore Lo Manthang. Visit the monasteries of Jampa Lhakhang, Thubchen Gompa, and Chode Gompa. Optionally, hike to the King’s Palace.
8. Day 8: Trek from Lo Manthang to Dhakmar (3,820m/12,533ft). Visit the Ghar Gompa, one of the oldest Tibetan monasteries in Nepal.
9. Day 9: Trek from Dhakmar to Ghiling (3,800m/12,467ft).
10. Day 10: Trek from Ghiling to Chuksang (3,040m/9,974ft).
11. Day 11: Trek from Chuksang to Jomsom.
12. Day 12: Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara.

Alternative Route Option: Consider adding a side trip to the Damodar Kunda Lakes, a group of holy lakes located at an altitude of over 4,800m (15,748ft). This adds a few days to your trek and requires extra acclimatization.

Hidden Gems Along the Trail

While Lo Manthang is the main attraction, the Upper Mustang trek offers many hidden gems along the way:

• Kagbeni: The medieval village at the entrance to Upper Mustang. Explore its narrow alleyways and visit the ancient Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Monastery.
• Chungsi Cave Monastery: A stunning monastery carved into a cliff face, dating back to the 8th century.
• Ghar Gompa: One of the oldest Tibetan monasteries in Nepal, known for its intricate murals and serene atmosphere.
• The Red Cliffs of Dhakmar: Hike through the dramatic red cliffs surrounding the village of Dhakmar, a photographer’s paradise.
• Local Tea Houses: Stop at the local tea houses along the trail for a taste of authentic Nepali cuisine and warm hospitality. Engage with the locals and learn about their culture.

Cost Considerations and Budget Planning for 2025

Trekking in Upper Mustang is not a budget-friendly adventure. The restricted area permit alone makes it significantly more expensive than other treks in Nepal. However, with careful planning, you can manage your expenses and make the most of your trip.

Breaking Down the Costs

• Permits: As mentioned earlier, the RAP costs US$50 per person per day for the first 5 days and US$10 per day thereafter. For a 10-day trek, this amounts to US$300 per person. Add the TIMS card (US$15-20) and ACAP permit (US$25-30).
• Flights: The round-trip flight from Pokhara to Jomsom costs approximately US$150-200 per person.
• Trekking Agency: Hiring a trekking agency is mandatory for obtaining the RAP. The cost of a guided trek typically ranges from US$100-US$200 per person per day, depending on the level of service and the size of the group. This includes accommodation, meals, porter services, and guide fees.
• Accommodation: Accommodation in Upper Mustang is in basic tea houses. Expect to pay around NPR 500-1000 (US$4-8) per night for a double room.
• Food: Meals in tea houses typically cost NPR 500-800 (US$4-7) per meal. Dal Bhat (rice and lentils) is the most common and affordable option.
• Tips: Tipping your guide and porter is customary in Nepal. Expect to tip around 10-15% of their daily wages.

Estimated Budget for a 12-Day Upper Mustang Trek (Per Person):

• Permits: US$350
• Flights: US$175
• Trekking Agency (12 days @ US$125/day): US$1500
• Accommodation: US$60
• Food: US$84
• Tips: US$150
• Total: US$2319

Budgeting Tips:

• Travel in a Group: The RAP requires a minimum of two people, so traveling with a friend or joining a group can significantly reduce your costs.
• Negotiate with Your Trekking Agency: Compare prices from different agencies and negotiate the terms of your trek.
• Pack Light: Avoid unnecessary porter fees by packing only essential items.
• Choose Local Food: Dal Bhat is the most affordable and readily available option.
• Avoid Bottled Water: Bring a water filter or purification tablets to save money and reduce plastic waste.

Safety Considerations and Practical Advice for Summer Trekking

Trekking in Upper Mustang, especially during the summer/monsoon season, requires careful attention to safety and preparation. Altitude sickness, weather conditions, and trail conditions are all important factors to consider.

Altitude Sickness Prevention

Upper Mustang is a high-altitude region, and altitude sickness is a real concern. Here are some tips to prevent altitude sickness:

• Acclimatize Gradually: Ascend slowly and allow your body time to adjust to the altitude. Spend extra nights in villages like Kagbeni and Ghiling to acclimatize.
• Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water throughout the day.
• Avoid Alcohol and Smoking: These can worsen the symptoms of altitude sickness.
• Eat Light Meals: Avoid heavy, greasy foods.
• Listen to Your Body: If you experience symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headache, nausea, or dizziness, descend to a lower altitude immediately.
• Consider Diamox: Talk to your doctor about taking Diamox (acetazolamide), a medication that can help prevent altitude sickness.

Weather and Trail Conditions

While Upper Mustang is relatively dry during the summer monsoon, you should still be prepared for occasional rain. Trail conditions can be slippery, especially on steep ascents and descents.

• Check the Weather Forecast: Stay updated on the weather forecast before and during your trek.
• Pack Appropriate Gear: Bring a waterproof jacket, rain pants, and sturdy hiking boots with good traction.
• Be Aware of Landslides: Landslides can occur in the lower regions of Nepal, potentially disrupting your travel to and from Jomsom.
• Hire an Experienced Guide: A local guide can provide valuable insights into the trail conditions and potential hazards.

Other Safety Tips

• Travel Insurance: Ensure you have comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical emergencies, evacuation, and trip cancellation.
• First-Aid Kit: Carry a well-stocked first-aid kit with essential medications, bandages, and antiseptic wipes.
• Communicate with Your Family: Let your family or friends know your itinerary and check in with them regularly.
• Respect Local Culture: Dress modestly, ask permission before taking photos, and be mindful of local customs and traditions.

Conclusion: Your Upper Mustang Adventure Awaits

Trekking in Upper Mustang is an unforgettable experience that will leave you with lasting memories. From the dramatic landscapes and ancient monasteries to the warm hospitality of the local people, this hidden kingdom offers a unique and enriching adventure. By carefully planning your trip, securing the necessary permits, and being prepared for the challenges of high-altitude trekking, you can embark on a journey of a lifetime.

Ready to explore the hidden gems along the Upper Mustang Trail? Contact a reputable trekking agency today to start planning your adventure for July 2025! Don’t just dream about it, experience it! The magic of Mustang awaits.