Upper Mustang. Just the name conjures images of windswept landscapes, ancient monasteries clinging to cliffs, and a culture frozen in time. While many trekkers flock to the Everest region, those seeking a truly unique and less-crowded experience are drawn to the mystical Kingdom of Lo. But even within this already remote region, there are hidden gems along the Upper Mustang trail waiting to be discovered. This July 2025, I ventured back to Upper Mustang, and I’m excited to share some of my favorite off-the-beaten-path experiences and practical tips to help you plan your own unforgettable adventure.
Whether you’re considering solo trekking, prefer the camaraderie of group trekking, or opt for the expertise of guided tours, Upper Mustang offers something for every type of traveler. This guide is tailored to help you navigate the unique challenges and rewards of trekking in this high-altitude desert during the summer/monsoon season, ensuring a safe and enriching experience.
Unveiling the Lesser-Known Villages: Beyond Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang, the walled city and former capital, is undoubtedly the highlight of the Upper Mustang trek. However, many trekkers focus solely on reaching Lo Manthang and overlook the charming villages that dot the landscape along the way. This time, I dedicated extra time to exploring these smaller settlements, and it made all the difference. While guided tours often highlight these villages, solo trekking or even group trekking without a set itinerary allows for more flexibility to linger and connect with the locals.
Ghami: The Village of Murals
While often bypassed on the way to Tsarang, Ghami deserves more than just a quick glance. The village is famous for its stunning murals adorning the walls of the Ghami Lhakhang monastery. These intricate paintings, depicting Buddhist deities and scenes from Tibetan folklore, are a feast for the eyes. During my visit, I spent a couple of hours simply admiring the artwork and speaking with a local monk who shared insights into the history and symbolism behind the murals. The entry fee to the monastery is around NPR 500 (approximately $4 USD), and it’s well worth it. Look for the old woman selling handmade prayer flags near the entrance; purchasing one helps support the local community.
Tsarang: A Royal Heritage
Tsarang (also spelled Charang) boasts a massive, imposing dzong (fortress) that once served as a royal residence. Although largely in ruins, the Tsarang Dzong still exudes a sense of power and history. Climbing to the top offers panoramic views of the surrounding valley. The attached monastery is also worth exploring, particularly for its impressive collection of thangkas (Tibetan Buddhist paintings). The village itself is quieter and less visited than Lo Manthang, making it a great place to experience a more authentic slice of Mustang life. Don’t miss the opportunity to try the local barley beer (chang) at one of the small teahouses. Be aware that during the monsoon season, the path to the dzong can be slippery, so wear sturdy shoes.
Dhakmar: The Red Cliffs and Mysterious Caves
Located a bit off the main trail, Dhakmar is a hidden gem known for its dramatic red cliffs and network of ancient caves. The landscape here is truly breathtaking, with towering rock formations painted in vibrant shades of red and orange. The caves, some of which are believed to have been used as meditation retreats centuries ago, add an element of mystery and intrigue. While some caves are easily accessible, others require a bit of scrambling and climbing. If you’re planning to explore the caves, consider hiring a local guide from Dhakmar village. They can point out the most interesting caves and share stories about their history and significance. The trek to Dhakmar from Ghami is a moderately challenging day hike, taking around 5-6 hours round trip. Pack plenty of water and snacks, as there are limited facilities in Dhakmar.
Navigating the Upper Mustang Trail in Monsoon Season (July 2025)
Trekking in Upper Mustang during the summer/monsoon season (June-August) presents unique challenges and rewards. While the weather can be unpredictable, with occasional rain and cloudy skies, it also offers advantages such as fewer crowds, lush green landscapes, and blooming wildflowers. However, careful planning and preparation are essential.
Weather Patterns and Trail Conditions
July typically sees a mix of sunshine and rain in Upper Mustang. While the region lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, it’s not entirely immune to the monsoon. Expect occasional showers, particularly in the afternoons and evenings. The trails can become muddy and slippery, especially on steep sections. Check the weather forecast before you set out each day and be prepared for sudden changes. Carrying rain gear, such as a waterproof jacket and pants, is essential. Trekking poles can also be helpful for maintaining balance on slippery trails.
Permits and Regulations
As of July 2025, the regulations for trekking in Upper Mustang remain the same. You’ll need a Restricted Area Permit (RAP), which costs $500 USD per person for the first 10 days and $50 USD per day thereafter. You also need a Trekker’s Information Management System (TIMS) card. These permits can only be obtained through a registered trekking agency. Remember to carry copies of your permits and passport with you at all times. Solo trekking is technically not allowed in Upper Mustang; you must trek with at least one other person or as part of a guided tour. However, some agencies might allow solo trekking with a mandatory guide.
Accommodation and Food
Teahouses along the Upper Mustang trail offer basic but comfortable accommodation. During the monsoon season, some teahouses may be closed or have limited services. It’s advisable to book your accommodation in advance, especially if you’re traveling in a group. The food is simple but hearty, typically consisting of dal bhat (rice, lentils, and vegetables), noodles, and momos (dumplings). Expect to pay around NPR 1500-2000 (approximately $12-16 USD) per person per day for accommodation and food. Carrying some snacks, such as energy bars and nuts, is also a good idea.
Budgeting for Your Upper Mustang Trek (July 2025)
An Upper Mustang trek can be relatively expensive compared to other treks in Nepal, primarily due to the cost of the Restricted Area Permit. However, with careful planning, you can minimize your expenses.
Permit Costs
As mentioned earlier, the Restricted Area Permit costs $500 USD for the first 10 days and $50 USD per day thereafter. Factor this into your budget. If you plan to spend more than 10 days in Upper Mustang, consider adjusting your itinerary to make the most of the permit fee. For example, a 12-day trek will cost $600 USD for the permit, while a 10-day trek will cost $500 USD.
Transportation Costs
The most common way to reach Upper Mustang is by flying from Pokhara to Jomsom and then driving to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. A one-way flight from Pokhara to Jomsom costs around $120-150 USD. From Jomsom, you can hire a jeep to Kagbeni for around NPR 5000 (approximately $40 USD). Alternatively, you can take a local bus from Pokhara to Jomsom, which is cheaper but takes longer and can be uncomfortable. Another option is to charter a helicopter directly to Lo Manthang, but this is significantly more expensive, costing several thousand dollars.
Accommodation and Food Costs
Budget around NPR 1500-2000 (approximately $12-16 USD) per person per day for accommodation and food. This includes basic teahouse accommodation and simple meals. If you prefer more comfortable accommodation or Western-style food, expect to pay more. Drinks, such as bottled water and soft drinks, can be expensive in Upper Mustang, so consider carrying a water filter or purification tablets.
Other Expenses
Other expenses to consider include tips for guides and porters, souvenirs, and entrance fees to monasteries and museums. Tipping is customary in Nepal, and it’s a good way to show your appreciation for the service you receive. Budget around 10-15% of the total cost of your trek for tips. Souvenirs, such as Tibetan handicrafts and prayer flags, can be purchased in Lo Manthang and other villages. Entrance fees to monasteries and museums typically range from NPR 500-1000 (approximately $4-8 USD) per person.
Sample Budget Breakdown (10-day trek):
- Permit: $500 USD
- Flights: $240-300 USD (round trip)
- Jeep to Kagbeni: $40 USD
- Accommodation and Food: $120-160 USD
- Tips and Souvenirs: $50-100 USD
- Total: $950-1100 USD (excluding trekking agency fees)
This is just an estimate, and your actual expenses may vary depending on your travel style and preferences.
Staying Safe on the Upper Mustang Trail
Trekking in Upper Mustang is generally safe, but it’s important to be aware of the potential risks and take necessary precautions. Altitude sickness, weather conditions, and remoteness are the main safety concerns.
Altitude Sickness
Upper Mustang is a high-altitude region, with elevations ranging from 2500 meters (8200 feet) to over 4000 meters (13,123 feet). Altitude sickness is a common concern, and it’s important to acclimatize properly. Ascend gradually, spend extra days at lower altitudes to acclimatize, and drink plenty of water. Avoid alcohol and strenuous activity in the first few days. If you experience symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headache, nausea, and dizziness, descend immediately. Consider carrying altitude sickness medication, such as Diamox, and consult with your doctor before your trek.
Weather Conditions
As mentioned earlier, the weather in Upper Mustang can be unpredictable, especially during the monsoon season. Be prepared for sudden changes in weather and pack appropriate clothing. Monitor the weather forecast regularly and avoid trekking in bad weather. The trails can be slippery and muddy, so wear sturdy shoes with good traction. Be aware of the risk of landslides and rockfalls, especially during heavy rain.
Remoteness
Upper Mustang is a remote region with limited access to medical facilities. In case of an emergency, evacuation can be difficult and expensive. Make sure you have comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical evacuation. Carry a well-stocked first-aid kit and know how to use it. Consider carrying a satellite phone or personal locator beacon (PLB) for emergencies. Inform your trekking agency or family members about your itinerary and check in with them regularly. When it comes to safety, guided tours are generally the safest option, as guides are trained to handle emergencies and have local knowledge.
Cultural Sensitivity
Upper Mustang is a culturally sensitive region, and it’s important to respect local customs and traditions. Dress modestly, especially when visiting monasteries and religious sites. Ask for permission before taking photos of people or religious objects. Avoid public displays of affection. Learn a few basic Tibetan phrases, such as “Tashi Delek” (hello) and “Kuzuzangpo La” (thank you). Bargaining is acceptable in markets and shops, but be respectful and avoid haggling excessively. Always be mindful of your impact on the environment and avoid littering.
Insider Tips for an Unforgettable Upper Mustang Experience
Having trekked Upper Mustang several times, I’ve learned a few tricks and tips that can enhance your experience.
Pack Light
You’ll be carrying your backpack for several days, so pack light. Only bring essential items and leave unnecessary items behind. Choose lightweight and quick-drying clothing. A good rule of thumb is to keep your backpack weight under 10 kilograms (22 pounds).
Learn Some Basic Tibetan Phrases
Even a few basic Tibetan phrases can go a long way in connecting with the locals. Learning to say hello (Tashi Delek), thank you (Kuzuzangpo La), and please (Thugs-je che) will be greatly appreciated.
Support Local Businesses
Whenever possible, support local businesses by purchasing goods and services from local vendors. This helps to boost the local economy and provides income for the community. Buy handicrafts, souvenirs, and food from local shops and teahouses.
Take Your Time
Don’t rush through your trek. Take your time to soak in the scenery, explore the villages, and interact with the locals. Spend extra days in Lo Manthang and other interesting places. Allow yourself to be flexible and adjust your itinerary as needed.
Be Prepared for Power Outages
Power outages are common in Upper Mustang, so be prepared. Carry a power bank to charge your electronic devices. Headlamps or flashlights are essential for navigating at night. Some teahouses may have solar power, but it’s not always reliable.
Drink Plenty of Water
Staying hydrated is crucial when trekking at high altitude. Drink plenty of water throughout the day. Carry a water bottle or hydration pack and refill it at teahouses or natural springs. Consider using a water filter or purification tablets to ensure the water is safe to drink.
Conclusion: Your Adventure Awaits
Upper Mustang is a truly magical place, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and adventure. Whether you choose solo trekking for its independence, the camaraderie of group trekking, or the expertise of guided tours, you’re in for an unforgettable experience. By following these tips and advice, you can plan a safe, rewarding, and culturally sensitive trek in this hidden gem of the Himalayas. So, what are you waiting for? Start planning your Upper Mustang adventure today! Consider booking your trek with a reputable agency that prioritizes sustainable tourism and supports local communities. Your journey to the Kingdom of Lo awaits!